Magical Czech Christmas Markets

After my December trip to the Czech Republic, I’m thinking about leading a tour of its Christmas Markets.

I’d never been there for Christmastime. But what a magical week! I felt like jolly old Santa and Buddy the Elf had sparkle-decorated the country just for my enjoyment. It was surprising. Enchanting. And the yuletide wonderland spilled far beyond just the biggest square in Prague, the Czech Republic’s biggest city. Everyone was in on it. I got to see how the Czechs do Christmas.

My ancestors were “country mice,” farmers and laborers from the rural outskirts of the southwestern Czech city of Domažlice. And when my ancestors’ got to Chicago, they didn’t stay there, unlike hundreds of thousands of other Czechs who become American “city mice.” No, my kin headed north to fell trees and pick rocks in Wisconsin, turning a swampy forest into a pasture fo milk cows in the Wisconsin hinterlands. And my experience of a Czech Christmas began with my “country mice” cousins in the medieval square of of Domažlice. The Mayor, Standa Antoš, and group of us drove a few miles to Cerchov, the snow-capped highest peak in the Bavarian Forest. Having hiked the final half mile through the snow, we ate lunch at the city’s new restaurant at the summit. With a fire roaring nearby, I enjoyed my goulash soup, locally-brewed beer, and warm conversation with my friends.

Back in town, the bustling Christmas Market in the square turned electric as day surrendered to the night—the leaning tower of the Baroque church standing sentry on the left, the bedazzled city hall on the right, the 14^th century city gate lit up at the far end, and the booths, carousel and photo opportunities of the market filling the space in between. I bought Christmas tree ornaments, Czech sausage and German Glühwein. The German mulled wine wasn’t a surprise to me because the border with Bavaria is just on the other side of Cerchov, about 12 miles away. I was in town for the launch of the Czech translation of my book and spent three nights, the last of which included an amazing concert inside the grand Baroque church. The saying goes, “every Czech is a musician,” and local residents made up the orchestra (what a string section!), the adult choir, the children’s choir, the Czech bagpiper, the big wooden horn player, and one of the vocal soloists (my pal, Kamil Jindrich). Kamil called in a couple of Prague ringers as soloists, and the evening had the professional feel of a big city concert, except everyone in the audience knew the people on stage.

If I were to lead a Christmas Market tour, I’d stay three nights in Domažlice (Fri, Sat, Sun) in the Golden Bee hotel on the main square, an easy walk to restaurants, cafes, the city brewery, museums, and, of course, the market. We would spend a day doing the things I described above, including the Sunday evening Christmas concert. The other two days, we would daytrip by train to the fabled Christmas markets in Munich, and spend the other day in nearby Pilsen for its Christmas Market, a tour of the Pilsner Urquell Brewery, the Patton Memorial WWII Museum, and other sites. Munich is about two and a half hours from Domažlice by train; Pilsen is less than an hour’s train ride. Two other German city options easily gotten to by train are Nuremburg and Regensburg.

Prague at Christmastime is crowded and expensive on the weekends, so we would avoid the crush and arrive by train from Domažlice on Monday. I like to stay a lovely, affordable hotel on Kampa Island in Mala Strana, right in the center of everything, but in one of the most-lovely, and quiet, parts of the city. My first Prague market was at the Basilica of St. Ludmila, a tip from a Domažlice friend who said, “Patrick, it is where Prague residents go to have fun away from the tourists.” I answered, “but I’m a tourist.” He smiled, “no, you’re one of us.” I’ll let you judge from my photos and video which Prague market you like best. The basilica’s impressive double-steeples make for a gorgeous backdrop, but the overhead twinkle lights, strung from a central dazzling Christmas tree to the stalls of the market, cast a magical spell on all who entered. I won’t lie, this one was my favorite.

The biggest Christmas market is in Old Town Square, right next to the famous Astronomical Clock and its hourly parade of the saints. Even on a weekday the square is crowded because all tourists eventually stumble over to Prague’s most famous square. The market is big, has a tremendous variety of goods, food, and drink. You’re going to go to Old Town Square anyway, so don’t feel guilty about going. It is fun enough that I made a second visit, at 7:30 am, predawn, before hardly anyone was there. The thousands of lights were lit anyway, and simply gorgeous. Even a garbage truck making its rounds was lit for Christmas.

The short walk from Old Town Square to Wenceslaus Square is probably the most-trod stretch of pavement in Prague, and is the route to the market in Wenceslaus Square. It sprawls for blocks, and includes a skating rink and a stage for live music. There are plenty of restaurants around the square, but they are largely overpriced and aimed at the credit cards of those who heard that Prague is a great place for Christmas. You are much better off either eating at the market itself, or at one of Prague’s many terrific restaurants not geared for out of towners. The market is wonderful, just be wary about where you spend your money. Having said that, the shopping gallerias and side streets off of the square have many small, independent and quirky shops well worth your wander. In my experience, Czechs are collectors. And these shops sell odd and unique items that I haven’t seen anywhere else.

The fourth and final market I recommend is hidden in plain sight, and just a few blocks from the hotel where I stay. Charles Bridge is a must-see for tourists, an all-pedestrian, nearly 700 year-old stone span across the Vlatava River and has spectacular views wherever you look. However, most people heading across in the direction of Prague Castle will walk right past a set of steps that lead down to Kampa Island, and a delightful Christmas Market more of the scale of what they have in Domažlice than the other three Prague markets I’ve recommended. (Please don’t tell anyone about these secret stairs, as I don’t want my favorite neighborhood overrun with tourists!) After you stroll this delightful market, head to Iveta Fabešová Cafe, one of my most-beloved hangouts in Prague. The owner and chef has become so popular that she’s opened a second location in a very upscale and fashionable new building across town. Her imaginative pastries have caused a sensation, and her original café is in a villa on Kampa Island, next to a park that sprawls along the river.

And since every Czech is a musician, I recommend taking the five-minute walk from Iveta’s café to my favorite jazz club, U Malého Glena. They have music most nights, and their bar is always a fun hangout. If jazz isn’t your bag, nearby NAPA Bar and Gallery often has excellent live music for a spirited crowd of mainly Czechs. When I was there in December, the two guitars and a gal ensemble led us in a full-throated sing-a-long of Pink Floyd’s “Wish You Were Here.” I wish you, on your trip to Prague, an unexpected delight like that. Friends who’ve come with me to Prague a couple of times refer to this phenomenon as The Truman Show, as the lovely coincidences are so perfect they almost seem planned. It is why I keep going back.